Answer:

Wood floors add value and beauty to your home, but as with any major home improvement, you can expect some measure of inconvenience and disruption. There are some preparations you must make before the installation can proceed, to ensure a satisfactory result:

1) The building should be completely closed, with outside windows and doors in place to prevent exposure to the elements.

2) All trades using water and/or other liquid components, such as drywall crews, painting contractors, or ceramic tile installers, should have their work complete before the hardwood floors arrive on site. The temperature and relative humidity must be at “normal living conditions” – that is, between 15 & 24 degrees Celsius, and between 35 & 55 degrees relative humidity. If you are planning on air-conditioning your home, then that system should be in place and operating before the hardwood is installed. Temporary heating systems can greatly increase the humidity level in the building, so they should be disconnected, and the permanent heating system should be functional at least 3 days prior to installation of the flooring.

3) All furniture & appliances should be removed completely from the work area. Old floor coverings such as carpet, vinyl, etc. should be removed and the subfloor should be re-nailed to eliminate / reduce streaks before the new hardwood is installed.

4) Plastic sheets should be hung over doorways leading into the work area to reduce the spread of work generated dust.

5) You must expect and accept the noise created by the installation process; unless arrangements are made in advance, the installers must do all their cutting in the general area of the installation.

6) Children & pets are intrinsically fascinated by the activity surrounding the installation process; and must be kept away from the workspace.

7) In the case of a custom on-site finish, additional measures must be taken to prevent the spread of dust created by the sanding process. Seal off all cold air returns, hang extra plastic in doorways & tape kitchen cupboards, refrigerator doors etc. Open food containers must be removed completely to avoid contamination by the finishing process. Please see FAQ’s re: Refinishing.

8) Repainting of the baseboards and ¼-round can be expected after our work is complete.

9)Our estimator cannot evaluate the level or general condition of the subfloor / concrete if it is covered by carpeting or furniture. There may be an additional charge if any extra work is required to correct hidden subfloor / concrete problems.

10)Wiring hidden behind / under baseboards or attached to the bottom of the sub-floor must be brought to the estimator’s attention so we can evaluate the best way to proceed without incurring damage, however, Darmaga Hardwood will not be held responsible for any incurred damages to wiring systems. Some wiring systems we have encountered do not conform to building codes so please investigate & / or inform our estimator.

If the items listed above are anticipated ahead of time, the amount of stress involved will be far less; and will thus allow your household to get back to normal much sooner; and you will be able to relax and enjoy your new floors with pleasure.

If you require further information, please contact our office.

Thank you,

DARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING LTD.

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Answer:

Yes, hardwood floors are a product of nature & will change in appearance over time:

1) Most types of discoloration are natural & the change in appearance is usually so gradual that most homeowners do not notice it at all. The culprit that causes discoloration is usually ultra-violet (U.V.). Ultra-violet is a form of light wavelength that the sun emits that causes color change in many products – many that you may not be aware of, including clothing, painted walls, wallpaper, carpets, & almost all plastics.

2) Some species of woods change more rapidly than others, North American cherry being a prime example. This wood, when first installed (or refinished) starts a very light tan/golden color. Within a few days (depending upon the amount of direct sunlight) will begin to noticeably change to a deep, rich, reddish-brown tone.

3) As mentioned above, with most species (common ones being oak or maple), the change is very gradual & goes unnoticed until homeowners move furniture or area carpets, bring samples home to compare to their existing (usually when installing new areas of hardwood), or when areas of floors are repaired with new material. Do not be alarmed! This is a natural occurrence, and in most cases, the lighter areas will even out & become unnoticeable, if given enough time.

4) Be aware however, that discoloration can also be caused by exposure to caustic materials, or by improper maintenance methods. Please check with us or your builder for information on proper cleaning products & procedures for your hardwood floors. Please see FAQ’s re: Maintenance.

5) Finally, many of the high quality prefinished manufacturers use u.v. retardant finishes (on certain species – some, like North American cherry are sought after for their ability to change, & of course, their final appearance). However, even these steps in prefinishing are not guaranteed to maintain color stability.

If you require further information, please contact our office.

Thank you,

DARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING LTD.

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Answer:

Yes, 3/8 thick strip flooring is still very common in Ontario & can present various problems when the wear-layer reaches a certain thickness:

1. 2 - 3 coats of polyurethane, combined with our summer humidity, can expand the floor to such an extent that the floor may splinter and perhaps buckle. This is entirely dependent on how much the floor has been sanded. Usually a 3rd sanding can be very risky.

2. If the floor shows separation from contraction ( lack of humidity ), or due to too many sandings ( nail heads will usually be exposed as well ), trowel filling the floor could exacerbate the problem. Should the humidity rise, the filler ( plus multiple coats of varnish ) will take away both the ability of the floor to breathe and enhance the expansion pressure.

3. If Darmaga Hardwood Flooring Ltd's estimator feels that your floor is beyond or near the end of its wear layer, we may recommend not refinishing or recoating your floors. In that case, replacement may be the only avenue. If the homeowner is adamant about the procedure, Darmaga Hardwood Flooring Ltd reserves the right to have the homeowner release Darmaga Hardwood Flooring Ltd from any warranty or responsibility after the procedure.

4. Finally, remember, if a floor is sanded to its critical wear layer limit, splintering and instability in the floor may result.

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Answer:

One of the advantages of a hardwood floor is that over time the products can be refinished for a change in color or for repair purposes ( as long as the floor has enough material to safely sand ). The homeowner must be aware, and in most cases involved in this procedure:

1. Remove furniture, appliances, drapes & louvers.

2. Broadloom removal by customer must also include removal of carpet gripping strips around perimeter of rooms as well as any tacks or nails used to fasten carpet. If Darmaga Hardwood Flooring Ltd does not remove broadloom, price does not include metal binding strips in doorways to areas where broadloom may remain.

3. Pilot lights for gas appliances in the work area must be shut off prior to the application of oil based stains and urethanes. This includes stoves, furnaces, and water heaters, etc. Even light switches can be a source of sparks that can lead to an explosion during the application of sealers that are extremely volatile.

4. When finishing ( or re-finishing ) hardwood floors in one area of the house, careful isolation of any air circulators such as furnaces must be considered. The simple application of a couple of layers of cheese cloth over any cold air returns in the workspace can have a dramatic reduction in the amount of dust spread into other areas of the house.

5. Loosely inserting old rags into hot air registers in the workspace will prevent the furnace system from blowing dust onto a freshly applied finish.

6. Care must be given to sealing off kitchen cupboards with plastic and tape. As well, even newer refrigerators can have leaky door seals that allow the penetration of chemicals that will spoil any foodstuffs inside. Seal the door with plastic and tape, but do not cover the fan system at the bottom or rear of the refrigerator.

7. During the application of solvent based products, strong chemical odors will be evident. Small children and people with asthmatic conditions should remain out of the house until the finish is cured and a complete air exchange has occurred.

8. All pets should be isolated during all phases of the finishing job. Cats and dogs shed a great deal of hair that can detrimentally affect the look of your new floor finish. Birds and aquarium dwellers are extremely susceptible to chemical poisoning and should be removed from the workspace.

9. Direct sunlight can create bubbles in a freshly applied finish. A single layer of newspaper taped over exposed windows can prevent this while still allowing enough light into the workspace for the crew to do their work properly.

10. Crawl spaces under a hardwood floor must be heated to prevent unacceptable expansion and contraction of the floor as well as to expedite the drying and curing of the finish. Please advise the estimator of any unusual conditions that may not be evident during a cursory inspection of the workspace.

Our staff will work in your home with the utmost of care, but please remember that both installation and sanding are dust creating operations and the homeowner must accept clean-up in spite of precautions.

Cutting & trimming of products are to be done in the areas where floor is being installed unless otherwise arranged prior. Also, we will complete the work as quickly & efficiently as possible, but please remember that weather conditions do play a part in the length of time finishes take to dry.

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Answer:

There are two important types of preparations as well as an important notice:

For water based finishes:
Clean all floors to be recoated with a strong solution of concentrated Woodwise floor cleaner in a ratio of one part concentrate to three parts water.

For oil based urethane finishes:
Clean all floors to be recoated with Bruce Clean 'N Strip applied liberally to absorbent rags. Do this twice, and dispose of the rags immediately after soaking them in a bucket of water. Ensure that all pilot lights are extinguished since this product is volatile and could create explosive fumes.

IMPORTANT NOTICE:
Certain products used in the maintenance of floor finishes are extremely difficult to completely remove. Even very minute amounts of any residual silicone based products can prevent the adhesion of a new coat of finish. Over-spray of furniture polish can also remain on the floor after cleaning, and cause adhesion problems.

Since we have no control over, or any knowledge of what may have been applied to the floor prior to buffing and recoating, we cannot assume or accept any responsibility, if the recoat turns out unsatisfactory.

DARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING and / or agents acting on our behalf, relieve themselves from any responsibility should the recoat turn out in an unacceptable manner, such as peeling, streaking, or bubbling, or in any other respect be less than perfect.

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Answer:

Hardwood floors are a product of nature & therefore have different characteristics & properties than other types of flooring materials. To preserve the beauty & life of your hardwood floors, please find below a list of simple maintenance procedures & recommendations:

Cleaning:

Keeping a hardwood floor clean is probably easier than you may think. Most cleaning is performed by regular vacuuming with a soft bristle head attachment, or by sweeping/dusting to remove dust & particles that could abrade the floor. New “statically charged” wipers are very easy to use & economic for dusting areas of any size.

The next step (if necessary) is to use liquid cleaners to remove fine dust, films, dried liquids, etc. It may not be necessary to clean the entire floor every time you vacuum or vice versa – “spot cleaning” may only be necessary, so use your best judgement! The type of cleaner you use is very important however. You should ONLY use the manufacturer’s approved cleaners available @ Darmaga Hardwood (which are very affordable & are always in stock). Unfortunately, most “box stores” do not carry the appropriate materials, so please feel free to contact your builder or us if you have any questions. By not using the right cleaners, damage to the appearance and durability may occur, resulting in a shorter lifespan. The appropriate cleaners are very affordable in comparison to having to resand or recoat your floors.

Remember:

1)NEVER applies large amounts of liquid to your floors – apply the cleaner indirectly or in small amounts from a spray bottle. Use a soft rag or terry cloth and avoid heavy pressure.

2)Most coatings of hardwood floors are plastic-based & can be affected by window cleaning products or wax-based furniture polishes/cleaners, so be careful how you use those products as well!

Humidity Control:

Humidity control is probably the most over-looked maintenance procedure by homeowners that usually involves unneeded service complaints &/or calls.

ALL woods expand and contract to vary degrees due to humidity or direct exposure to liquids. ALL homes are different in seasonal humidity changes. Proper relative humidity levels for your floors are between 40%-50%. This also happens to be most the most comfortable for you and I.

Low levels of humidity can cause shrinkage. This will be noticeable as separation between boards, & may be in specific areas (most commonly over heating ducts or around vents) or evenly throughout the floor. High levels of humidity will result in the wood expanding and possibly cause buckling in specific areas, or again, throughout the floor.

The use of humidifiers in the winter, and (possibly) dehumidifiers in the summer are usually required – please check with the manufacturer for recommended operation procedures. DO NOT be alarmed if the builder or we ask that your floor be left for a time (sometimes months) to allow humidity levels to return the floor to its proper shape if you experience these effects. Even with the use of humidifiers/dehumidifiers, it can sometimes take more than a month to return the moisture content in the wood to appropriate levels! Remember every home & its environment within is different, & will be up to you to maintain!

We also recommend the purchase of a digital humidity/temperature meter available at most hardware stores. These are affordable and will give instant and exact readings of humidity in your home – your humidifier/dehumidifier may not be keeping the levels it says it is & may require adjustment.

Scratches & Dents, Etc.:

ALL woods are susceptible to scratching or denting. Some species of wood are more dent resistant than others, & preventing this is entirely up to you. Some preventative recommendations are as follows:

1) High heels will easily dent any hardwood floor due to their small size and the pressure displaced at the “tips” of the heels. Use your discretion – we have seen floors damaged heavily from large formal parties!

2) Use “floor protectors” on as much furniture as possible (within reason) especially chairs. Even those pieces that you think may not be moved – why take the chance? These will help you prevent scratches/gouges if the items are moved or dragged. Remember: these, like the cleaners, are very affordable, so check often on pieces that are moved constantly (like eating-area chairs) & replace before they wear through! Heavy-duty Teflon protectors are available for larger, heavier pieces/appliances as well.

3) If moving large pieces of furniture or appliances that may already have floor protectors, try to place something underneath to avoid scratches (soft carpet with its soft side down works well – or possibly old blankets). A few minutes of preparation can avoid very costly repairs!

4) Doormats are a must if you have hardwood at entries to the home. This will help reduce moisture & dirt (& salt in the winter) from being tracked into the home. Also, mats are a very good idea in front of the sink or refrigerator if you have hardwood in the kitchen. This will help reduce damage from liquids/high traffic as well.

As you can see, most hardwood flooring maintenance involves the use of good judgement. However, if there are any questions, please feel free to contact your builder or us. If not, follow the above guidelines & enjoy a beautiful, natural product!

Thank you,

DARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING LTD.

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Answer:

Kitchen installations have become the norm over the past few years especially with the introduction of high quality prefinished floors, & yes, there are a few facts you should know before proceeding:

1)When selecting a new floor for kitchens, consideration must be given to height changes that could affect the placement of refrigerators and dishwashers, etc. Sufficient space must remain under the toe space along the base of cabinets as well.

2) The installation of new flooring in a kitchen is a good opportunity to inspect all dishwasher hoses for any signs of deterioration that could cause leakage, which would damage your floor. Also, removal and re-installation of appliances is responsibility of owner.

3) Teflon coated floor glides are available for the bottom of refrigerators and stoves that will help prevent damage to your new floor.

4) A small area mat on the floor below the kitchen sink is a good idea, since this is the most heavily used area of the house. This will extend the life of the finish on your new floor.

5)While your new floor will have a urethane finish that is completely impervious to water, the wood underneath the finish can be damaged by water penetration from between the boards. Cleaning up spills as they happen and regular cleaning of the surface with a recommended cleaning product will give you a long-lasting beautiful floor to be enjoyed for many years.

6)If your kitchen floor is part of a larger installation, consider having a threshold piece inserted at the entrance to the kitchen. This will enable you to have the kitchen refinished (if ever it needs it) without having to do the entire hardwood floor area in your home.

If you require further information, please contact our office.

Thank you,

ARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING LTD.

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Answer:

There are a few points to consider when a customer is contemplating the installation of the new technology floating floor systems or the more traditional glue down systems:

1. When we do an on-site measurement, we cannot determine the suitability of the concrete slab if the carpeting is in place. One of the factors that can adversely effect the installation of these types of floors is an irregular concrete surface. It must be level to within 3/16th of an inch over a 10 foot span. If the deviation is greater than this, the hardwood will have too great a deflection when walking on it.

2. Gapping and general failure of the floor could also occur and is completely beyond our control. Nor will the manufacturer warranty their product on a subfloor that does not fall within these parameters.

3. Please be aware that any delays and extra costs involved are the responsibility of the client, and should always be considered when making a decision about hardwood floors. Minor leveling can be done at the time of installation and priced on an hourly basis plus costs of material.

With all of this in mind, hardwood floors can still be an excellent choice for today's lifestyle and can greatly enhance the value and beauty of your home.

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WOOD’S ACCLIMATION

The point of acclimating wood flooring before installing it is to allow the moisture content of the wood to adjust to “normal living conditions” at the site – that is, the temperature and humidity conditions that will typically be experienced once the structure is occupied.

Thus, it does no good at all, in fact; it is likely harmful to store wood flooring at the jobsite under conditions that don’t reflect those normal environmental conditions.

The wood flooring industry has done a good job in recent years communicating the message that wood flooring is a dynamic material subject to changes in dimension as a result of changes in humidity in the surrounding environment. That has led to increasing awareness of the need to acclimate wood flooring before installation. Unfortunately, some installers have heard the message as, “Leaving wood flooring at the jobsite for two weeks will properly acclimate the wood, no matter what the conditions are.”

In truth, some wood flooring may already be at the proper moisture content when it’s delivered. To allow it to sit at the jobsite under excessively humid conditions will only cause the flooring to absorb unwanted moisture.

So, the key message is not that acclimation is good, and that’s all you need to know. Rather, installers need to understand the dynamics of water and wood and make educated judgments about when and how much acclimation is required. To do so requires knowing what the moisture content of the flooring is at the time of delivery and what its expected moisture content will be “in use.”

Wood at the jobsite

Before wood is delivered, the jobsite must be checked to determine if it is ready. Wood should not be delivered if jobsite moisture conditions are excessive. Otherwise, one will absorb moisture from the other.

The structure should be fully enclosed, with doors and windows in place, and interior climate controls should be operating for at least 48 hours to stabilize the moisture conditions of the interior. About 4 days should pass before an installation is started. Moisture contents of both the flooring and the subfloor must be checked and recorded before any work begins. In short, wood should not be delivered to the jobsite until the relative humidity and the moisture content in the building and the subfloor have been brought within the range expected after the building has been inspected.

If you require further information, please contact our office.

Thank you,

DARMAGA HARDWOOD FLOORING LTD.

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